The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.
Clément Gaillard
Karuizawa 34 Years 1980 Number One Drinks Ex-Bourbon Cask No. 6476 - Bottled 2014 LMDW Artist
This outstanding single cask was selected by La Maison du Whisky and illustrated by Singaporean artist Warren Khong. Powerful and slightly acetic (nail varnish), it takes a little time to open up, but once it does reveals fruity notes (apricot, raisins, candied orange) and the temple-like character (incense, precious wood, dust) that so perfectly encapsulates Karuizawa. Although less concentrated than sherry cask versions, it is abound with character found in notes of mint, spices (cinnamon, ginger) and tea (aged pu-erh). A slightly brawny start reveals a very well-balanced Karuizawa that is perhaps a little less austere than usual for this long-lost and much-loved distillery.
Nikka 12 years Of. Single Coffey Malt One of 3027 LMDW
Nikka Coffey Malt 12 Year Old is a special edition for La Maison du Whisky made from malted barley and distilled in Miyagikyo’s Coffey still. Dominated by rich notes of vanilla, toasted wood and latte coffee, it could be said to have something of a bourbon about it, but for us is more reminiscent of old grain whiskies from Cameronbridge and Caledonian, and their notes of exotic fruit (banana, coconut). Although not mind-blowingly complex, there is something very comforting about this malt.
Salvatore Mannino
Ichiro's Malt Of. Wine Wood Reserve
Ichiro’s Malt Wine Wood Reserve is probably the least straightforward of the blended malts in this trilogy, which also features Double Distilleries and Mizunara Wood Reserve, and I have to admit, the first time I tried it, I was a little disconcerted. But it’s worth giving this whisky a chance and, most importantly, time, which will lead it will unveil a deeply original palette of aromas and the full array of its qualities. This expression was matured in ex-red wine casks and finished in Ovum casks (named after their oval shape) made from French oak at the famous Taransaud cooperage.
The nose is round and immediately reveals a basketful of red fruits, followed by spices (pepper, clove) and the rich juices of red meat fresh out the oven and seasoned with aromatic herbs (rosemary). Then, as it is allowed to breathe, the register becomes softer (candied orange, sultanas), with chocolate, curry and Benedict sauce. We return to the kitchen again after, changing tack completely to a pot of mussels simmering in white wine. This is a malt full of surprises! Nutmeg and musk arrive at the very end of the nose. The palate is juicy and spicy (pepper) before being flooded with a cascade of fruits where red fruits (strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant) are followed by blood orange (keeping the theme of red), and finally nuts (hazelnut, walnut). The finish is long, focusing on pepper, orangette and cherry jam. Disconcerting, as I said, but in a good way.
The Last Vatted Grain Compass Box bottled 2011 Limited Edition of 297 bottles
At midnight on 22 November 2011, the law governing Scotch whisky and the terms “vatted malt” and “vatted grain” changed, with these words banned and replaced with the terms “blended malt” and “blended grain” for blends of malt or grain whiskies from one or more distilleries. Somewhat thumbing its nose at the decision, Compass Box produced two last blends (including this one) to be released just before the change came into effect in a final tribute to these age-old designations. This, The Last Vatted Grain, features whiskies from four grain distilleries, including Carsebridge (closed in 1983) and Port Dundas (closed in 2011).
The nose is round and seductive, like walking into a bakery filled with the aromas of brioche, flan, and chocolate chip vanilla custard brioche. As the malt is allowed to breathe, it takes us into the baker’s workshop, where more pronounced notes of vanilla, orange blossom and whipped egg whites appear. Finally, the register becomes spicy (white pepper, ginger). The palate is full and fluid. Staying true to the nose, stronger notes of orange liqueur, coffee éclair and toasted grain bread are all added to this rich festival of flavour. The spices become more intense (black pepper, candied ginger slices). The finish is long and sweet, with vanilla and orange zest. An incredibly tantalizing whisky, indeed! I remember once when I was working in the shop, a woman who said she didn’t like whisky tasted it on my recommendation and came back a few days later to buy two bottles!
