The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.
Clément Gaillard
Talisker 10 years Of. The Golden Spirit Of Skye Classic Malts
Like the Lagavulin 16 Year Olds from the same period (late 1980s and 1990s) the first editions of Talisker 10 Year Old have a well-deserved reputation among fans of peated malts. Peat really takes a central role, releasing powerful iodine (oysters) and medicinal notes. Pepper, green apple and liquorice are also found. It’s a complete whisky, maybe not the most complex but with a shine and consistency that immediately wins you over, with everything you could ask of an “entry-level” whisky.
Talisker 35 years 1977 Of. 16th Edition 2012 Release Classic Malts
Given the quality of the Talisker 10 Year Old, expectations were already high for this expression. The nose opens with gentle notes of almond (frangipane) and fruit (plum, orange, passion fruit). Peat is also there, this time powerful, smoky and medicinal but well-integrated. The typical marine and spicy notes so dear to Talisker fans love are also found, alongside a mouth-watering salinity, pepper and lemon. This is a Talisker with an unassailable balance of softness and tension, and likely one of the most stunning examples of its time.
Salvatore Mannino
Yamazaki Of. Puncheon bottled 2013 Suntory
This 2013 bottling was matured in a puncheon cask, which (in this case) is a 480-litre American white oak cask. It offers a fresher and richer expression than the better-known sherry cask bottlings. The full and round nose evokes freshly baked brioche, toasted bread and malt, and roasted apple. Herbal notes bring freshness, followed by milk ice cream and orange blossom. A real sweet treat! White plum adds gentle acidity and, as it’s allowed to breathe, vanilla notes sprinkled with nutmeg gradually become more present. The creamy and spicy palate (green pepper, juniper berry) matches the nose’s rich register, with notes of toasted whole-grain bread and vanilla cream. The finish is long, focusing on malt and fresh grass. It’s a Yamazaki I never get tired of and an absolute treat for the taste buds. Which is no surprise, given Suntory’s already long-established expertise.
Hibiki is Japanese for “resonance” and this is a whisky all about resonance, inspiring the taster with endless emotion. The very sophisticated nose immediately reveals its origins through a combination of precious woods (cedar, rosewood) and incense. It is floral (dried lavender) and fruity (candied plum), before a succession of orange peel mixed with clove, dried pine needles, sap, quince jelly, musk and new leather arrive. The complexity is neverending and we find ourselves leaving the temple to walk through the surrounding forest. Next come subtle notes of brine evoking Japanese’s famous pickles (tsukemono) made from cucumber and daikon (a local radish). Finally, exotic fruits appear (very ripe persimmon). The palate is fluid and a mix of candied fruits, orange liqueur and spices (clove, black pepper) are all poured over the palate. These are followed by a bouquet of roses and dried lavender, old leather, wood polish and incense paper (remember to remove your shoes before entering this temple of flavour). I’ve said it before, but blending is a true art form in the Land of the Rising Sun.
