The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.
STANISLAS KINDROZ
BOWMORE 1967 Of. Selected Sherry Casks Auxil Import 43%
This Bowmore’s first nose is abundantly fruit, with aromas of pineapple, mango, Mirabelle plum and kiwi. Deeply creamy, it gradually reveals a fine salinity. A minerality with marine (shellfish) and organic (charcoal) tones then appears. The attack further confirms this fruity expression. Notes of nectarine, mango and peach come one after the other, bringing lots of energy. The mid-palate brings the tasting up a notch with its spicy character (ginger, nutmeg, clove). Finally, a third sequence of flavours emerges, returning to sherry notes characterized by raisin that little by little move into liquorice. Absolutely superb. The refreshingly salty (oysters) finish rejoins a collection of flavours abandoned by the palate. It is also roasted (coffee) and rich (Mirabelle plum tart). The tasting closes on this wonderfully full moment. It would be a big mistake to reduce this Bowmore—and by extension all the Bowmore from the 1960s—to just their fruity aspect. This 1967 imported to France by Auxil has a wealth of other facets that make Bowmore a true icon of the sixties.
STRATHISLA 1967 40 years Gordon and MacPhail Single Cask #6112 50%
This single cask from Strathisla was bottled in 2007 for La Maison du Whisky. The herbaceous and heady (white rose) first nose is both firm and ethereal. Next, notes of herbal liqueur, newspaper sheet, stone, tobacco leaves and terracotta highlight this Strathisla’s complexity and character. The palate is authentically autumnal. With a waxy dimension that creates a very old school feel, the attack becomes juicy with spry notes of passion fruit. The palate then goes back and forth between fresh (orange, mint lozenge, aniseed) and warmer (hibiscus tea, chestnut cream, hazelnut) notes. The end of the palate brings a pinch of salt to the tasting. Kicking off with clementine, the start of the finish then develops notes of walnut, tobacco and beetroot. An original and silky wood then appears. The retro-nasal olfaction brings aromas of old books lain long abandoned in a library. This Strathisla truly is a whisky for enthusiasts nostalgic for temperamental malts.
SALVATORE MANNINO
GLENFARCLAS 1968, Family Cask, 51.0%, Cask No. 699, Private Selection N°2, selected by Luc Timmermans.
The full and generous nose brings an avalanche of wild aromas, from musk to incense paper, mango caramel, candied orange flesh, furniture scuffs, cappuccino froth and freshly grated ginger. As the malt is allowed to breathe, herbaceous notes join the ensemble (sap, fennel seed), along with cinnamon and precious wood. Truly enchanting!
The palate is rich, oily and just as generous as the nose, revealing coffee and ginger toffee, candied orange, Bénédictine and cinnamon stick. It then becomes exotic (dried persimmon, mild curry), delicately rancio and even richer (hazelnut-sprinkled cappuccino). The finish is long, woody and spicy.
An outstanding Glenfarclas (yet another one!) and a very famous vintage. The maturation is well-managed and its energy masks the whisky’s age well. But what else would one expect from a cask selected by such a great fan (and collector) of Glenfarclas? Thank you, Luc, for introducing me to this wonderful whisky which, 15 years later, still completely blows me away!
BOWMORE 36 Year Old 1972, Prestonfield Signatory Vintage/LMDW, Refill Sherry Butt No. 3881
Bowmore from the 1960s makes quite an impression and has often overshadowed the decades that followed. But it’s impossible to deny the charm of the distillery’s 1970s vintages. Although Bowmore’s exoticism is a little more reserved, they boast incredible complexity and presence. This 1972 bottled for La Maison du Whisky is a great example.
The refined nose is beautifully fresh. Fruit-forward (very ripe Cavaillon melon), it reveals pomander as well as smoke which, although subtle, brings to mind peppery and refined cured meats (speck). Spice (pepper, clove) becomes more present as the malt is given time to breathe. This subtlety remains in camphor notes that envelop aromas of dried flowers (rose) and incense paper. Surprisingly, the delicate notes manage to contain their more powerful counterparts. Finally, brine aromas are released, but once again with restraint—just enough to remind as of Loch Indaal lapping across the banks of Islay’s capital.
The palate is full-bodied, fluid and with a waxy mouthfeel. The nose is reaffirmed. Here also, a fragrance worthy of the greatest Parisian parfumiers fills the palate, punctuated with spices (green pepper, Sichuan). Peat and soot then bring a more oily, animal aspect (lardo di Colonnata). The wood is measured and delicate.
The finish is refreshing, with notes of eucalyptus, pepper, of course, and orange essential oil. Finally, peaty and salty notes transport us inexorably to the Queen of the Hebrides!
