The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.
STANISLAS KINDROZ
KARUIZAWA 1984 Number One Drinks Vintage Single Cask no. 8,173 - bottled 2014 Ex-Bourbon Cask:
Is this really an ex-bourbon cask? It’s a little more complicated than that. Sometimes at Karuizawa, whiskies ageing in ex-sherry casks would be transferred to ex-bourbon casks because the distillery needed more ex-sherry casks. This explains why some ex-bourbon casks have such a dark colour. The nose is extremely concentrated and needs time to breathe. The first aromas include wood coal, liquorice and orange zest. This aromatic complexity continues for a long time, revealing one after another notes of cooked beef, coconut, pencil lead and mango. The nose shows us this Karuizawa refuses to be put in a box, and the palate follows suit. Rich and oily, it begins by revealing notes of black coffee, hazelnut and cinnamon. The flavour palette then opens up into spices (pepper), florals (violet) and warm notes (vegetable stock). The end of the palate reveals melted chocolate and liquorice, increasing the concentrated aspect of the tasting. The finish starts with animal flavours. Leather. It then becomes richer with notes of gavottes biscuits and salted butter caramel. The last note is mouth-watering. The finish then returns to its animal dimension before petering out. This version has the elusive character found in many outstanding Karuizawa. It’s important to allow it lots of time to breathe during the tasting. That will help bring out its nobility. Otherwise, you risk missing everything this whisky has to offer.
UITVLUGT 17 Years 1997 Velier Barrels ULR - One of 1,404 - bottled in 2014:
ULR stands for Uitvlugt Light Rum, which is what was engraved on the casks used in this blend bottled for Italian bottler Velier in 2014. But is it really all that light? As soon as it’s been poured, notes of motor oil surge from this Uitvlugt. It would be a mistake, however, to reduce it to just this organic dimension. The nose is also fruity (coconut), rich (icing sugar, maple syrup), empyreumatic (overly toasted bread) and woody. The alcohol is very well-integrated. For just a second, the organic character found on the nose also appears on the palate. But this puddle of motor oil disappears as quickly as it arrives, making way for an ocean of sweet treats, from coffee to milk froth and coconut, all forming a magnificent first sequence of flavours. Lavender and cane sugar syrup notes then appear. The palate is characterized by lovely tension. The finish is beautiful and marked by notes of vanilla and varnish that wonderfully exemplify the rum’s duality. So, what do you think, is light the best word after all?
SALVATORE MANNINO
BUSHMILLS 1989, 32 YEAR OLD, Port Cask, cask 6096, Conquête, 50.1%
This whiskey from one of Ireland’s oldest distilleries is a worthy representative of the Emerald Isle—an exuberant cornucopia of fruit! The nose is rich and full, overflowing with ripe and exotic fruits (yellow peach, mango, papaya, persimmon). Make no mistake, here, we’re in Ireland! More discrete notes of musk, orange-clove pomander and incense paper then invite us on a journey far beyond the Giant’s Causeway. Citrus fruit liqueurs follow (Mandarine Napoléon Bénédictine) gradually as the spirit is allowed to breathe, with spices (green and grey pepper) and sap bringing even more freshness. The round and lively palate reaffirms every aspect of the nose, revealing a deluge of exotic fruits! The richness is increased with cocoa-sprinkled tiramisu. Candied blood orange, clove and herbaceous notes add to the complexity. The finish is long and soft, on fruit nectars and a yellow fruit sabayon dessert. Matured entirely in a port cask, this malt is never overpowered by the barrel’s previous occupant, with the wood instead magnifying the Bushmills and proving it truly deserves its places as the third highest selling Irish whiskey in the world.
