STANISLAS KINDROZ
BRORA 30 years Of. One of 2,652 - bottled 2009 Limited Bottling:
Nine editions of Brora 30 Year Old have appeared in the Diageo Special Releases range. Today, we will be tasting the eighth. Right from the very first seconds, a marine peat driven by seaweed notes leaps from the glass. It is refined. The oyster shell aromas that follow further bolster the coastal and mineral profile of this Brora (with limestone in a supporting role). Time makes way for lovely fruit fragrances combining mango and green apple, and then an original medicinal character. On the palate, harmony reigns supreme. The attack is characterized by notes of olive oil and the mid-palate is a long back and forth between fruity (mango, orange) and marine (iodine, seafood) sequences. The end of the palate reveals infused notes of thyme and lemon that bring lots of warmth to the flavour palette. There is something medicinal about this sequence, accentuating the connection to the nose. Huge minerality kicks off the mouth-watering finish. A light smoke appears, until now absent, followed by an ever-present mango, and finally malted barley. Imbued with wax and smoke, the empty glass is a beautiful end to the tasting. An absolutely outstanding balance of fruit and salinity.
KARUIZAWA 1981 Number One Drinks Vintage Single Cask no. 152 - bottled 2014 Ex-Sherry Cask:
I particularly appreciate the minimalist design of the labels in the Single Cask Collection. This whisky was bottled for La Maison du Whisky. It has a lovely sunny orange colour. The herbaceous and fruity (coconut) fragrances, and notes of varnish and sandpaper are somewhat misleading. It feels almost like nosing an aged rum rather than an aged whisky. This sensation continues in notes of pineapple skin that gradually mix with the emerging meaty, animal character. Sherry notes restore balance to the tasting. The way the nose then wavers between the world of rum and whisky is both impressive and exciting. Does the palate follow the same path? Absolutely, but starting in the other direction. The attack takes us first to whisky matured in ex-sherry casks, with lots of spices (pepper, nutmeg, clove), soy sauce and melted chocolate. But the series of ripe mango, strawberry, raspberry and mint syrup notes on the mid-palate move away from this into far richer realms. Richness is the best word for the praline start of the finish too, which is then very sweet with a hint of smoke. Finally, Karuizawa’s typical animal side appears alongside beautiful vanilla notes. Much to our delight, the whisky never picks a side. Karuizawa at its very best.
SALVATORE MANNINO
ICHIRO’S CARD COLOUR JOKER, 57.7%, 3,690 Bottles
This was one of the last bottlings in the famous Ichiro’s Cards series, which featured 54 cards in total (excluding the first four bottlings) and stands as a sort of liquid testament to the Hanyu distillery, which closed in 2000.
The Colour Joker is the only bottling that is a blend of several casks (all the others are single casks), 14 in total, and is composed of whiskies distilled in 1985, 1986, 1990, 1991 and 2000.
The nose is refined and concentrated, and brings beef stock to mind. Equally spicy (ras el-hanout), it’s a whisky that knows how to work up an appetite. Despite the concentration, it also boasts incredible complexity and it quickly becomes clear it will take time to reveal all its secrets. Soot and dried peat powder are subtly placed on this palette of aromas. The exotic voyage continues, this time with chocolate and mild curry. Gradually, as the whisky is allowed to breathe, we head to a sweeter register with orange essential oil, milk sweets and lemon caramel.
It’s a huge change of character, but that’s something you get used to with Hanyu! So we find ourselves with crème chiboust and cocoa beans. Then, after serving the pièce de resistance, we move onto dessert. And yet... rosemary notes suddenly reappear—like I said, it’s a whisky that really takes its time unveiling all the different aspects. The palate is oily, rich and intense. Next, we find cannon powder and spices (clove), and an interlacing of powerful flavours, from roasted meat pouring out its rich juices, to carob, chocolate and a lovely tanginess to finish. It’s a surprising but coherent marriage, one that only Hanyu and a handful of other whiskies could accomplish. The finish is endless, fittingly, with chocolate and spices on candied orange notes.
One of the most beautiful cards I have tasted so far. I remember at the tasting for its launch in Paris, it passed most people by because they didn’t give it enough time to open up. Hanyu Joker is one of those contemplative whiskies that comes out of its shell little by little, in a conversation that can last for hours! It takes patience to earn its trust, but it’s well worth earning when you do. As a blend, it is every bit as good as the series’ single casks and a great testament to Ichiro Akuto’s talent.
A trump card that guarantees its owner a winning hand.
STANISLAS KINDROZ
KARUIZAWA 1984 Number One Drinks Vintage Single Cask no. 8,173 - bottled 2014 Ex-Bourbon Cask:
Is this really an ex-bourbon cask? It’s a little more complicated than that. Sometimes at Karuizawa, whiskies ageing in ex-sherry casks would be transferred to ex-bourbon casks because the distillery needed more ex-sherry casks. This explains why some ex-bourbon casks have such a dark colour. The nose is extremely concentrated and needs time to breathe. The first aromas include wood coal, liquorice and orange zest. This aromatic complexity continues
for a long time, revealing one after another notes of cooked beef, coconut, pencil lead and mango. The nose shows us this Karuizawa refuses to be put in a box, and the palate follows suit. Rich and oily, it begins by revealing notes of black coffee, hazelnut and cinnamon. The flavour palette then opens up into spices (pepper), florals (violet) and warm notes (vegetable stock). The end of the palate reveals melted chocolate and liquorice, increasing the concentrated aspect of the tasting. The finish starts with animal flavours. Leather. It then becomes richer with notes of gavottes biscuits and salted butter caramel. The last note is mouth-watering. The finish then returns to its animal dimension before petering out. This version has the elusive character found in many outstanding Karuizawa. It’s important to allow it lots of time to breathe during the tasting. That will help bring out its nobility. Otherwise, you risk missing everything this whisky has to offer.
UITVLUGT 17 Years 1997 Velier Barrels ULR - One of 1,404 - bottled in 2014:
ULR stands for Uitvlugt Light Rum, which is what was engraved on the casks used in this blend bottled for Italian bottler Velier in 2014. But is it really all that light? As soon as it’s been poured, notes of motor oil surge from this Uitvlugt. It would be a mistake, however, to reduce it to just this organic dimension. The nose is also fruity (coconut), rich (icing sugar, maple syrup), empyreumatic (overly toasted bread) and woody. The alcohol is very well-integrated. For just a second, the organic character found on the nose also appears on the palate. But this puddle of motor oil disappears as quickly as it arrives, making way for an ocean of sweet treats, from coffee to milk froth and coconut, all forming a magnificent first sequence of flavours. Lavender and cane sugar syrup notes then appear. The palate is characterized by lovely tension. The finish is beautiful and marked by notes of vanilla and varnish that wonderfully exemplify the rum’s duality. So, what do you think, is light the best word after all?
