The View from the Golden Promise 15.3

 

The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.

 

 

Clément Gaillard

Convalmore 24 Years 1978 Of. Rare Malts Selection Natural Cask Strength - bottled 2003 Limited Edition

 

Bottlings of Convalmore aren’t easily found, which is a shame given the quality of this version from the Rare Malts range. Very medicinal (tar, camphor) and waxy, it is characterized by fresh aromas and wonderful notes of mint and eucalyptus, as well as a subtle and original fruitiness (papaya, lime). A wisp of gentle smoke adds the finishing touches to an unusual but interesting whisky— and one that makes me regret not tasting the Convalmores in Diageo’s Special Releases.

Rhum Rhum Of. PMG - Maître Capovilla Libération 2012 Version Intégrale

 

There is a style of Rhum Rhum that I really like and for me 2012 is one of the best expressions of it, maybe even the best. Something juicy and ripe reminds us that Capovilla also distils top-flight fruit brandies in Venice. This Libération 2012 reveals notes of apricot, pineapple, plum (umeshu) and lots of citrus fruits, including orange, mandarin and lemon. There’s a certain sweetness to it overall, with salted butter caramel, milk chocolate and a few sweet spices (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg) all making appearances. A dash of olive oil and a pinch of fleur de sel top off this unique and unmissable experience.

 

 

Salvatore Mannino

 

Van Winkle 13 years Of. Family Reserve from Papy Van Winkle's Private Stock

 

13 years might seem young for a whisky, but when it was released this rye was the youngest in its category, with most rye matured only for four to five years at the time. It hasn’t lost its freshness though—quite the opposite, in fact. The first version of this Family Reserve was launched in 1998, initially just for the Japanese market, only becoming available to American enthusiasts a year later. The wonderfully fresh nose reveals freshly cut wood, very ripe clementine, green curry, coriander leaf and coconut—a far cry from Kentucky! Allowed to breathe, it becomes rounder and citrus fruits in every form take the upper hand (fruit paste, orange blossom honey). The palate is full and spicy (clove), with notes of toasted cereals that see rye reaffirming its identity. Next it becomes floral (violet), revealing clementine and notes of polished wood.  The finish is long, with elegant wood and orange sorbet (would you believe it!).

Yoichi 1987 Of. Cask No. 112814 - bottled 2010 Nikka Single Cask

 

The round nose is a spice market (curry, cumin, fennel seed, juniper berry, clove), where oregano adds the end notes to this Oriental stroll. The sherry’s influence appears next in the form of dried fruit (fig, prune, orange) and rancio notes. Peat is notably absent (or shy), which is surprising for Yoichi, whose single cask expressions often rival Islay’s most phenolic releases. The palate is more powerful than the nose suggests, however, with stronger spices (pepper) and a note of peat (soot, earth), followed by herby and balsamic flavours (pine needle).  The finish is long and dry, with chilli and a hint of soot. They say Yoichi can produce 3,000 different malts.... And we’re still discovering new surprises!

 

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