In some 15 years, Neisson has gone from being one of Martinique’s niche distilleries to a highly esteemed player in the global rum scene. A pioneer of the Rhum Agricole de Martinique appellation, the distillery also began converting to organic farming in 2013. The rare bottlings it releases in dribs and drabs have begun to attract growing interest from run enthusiasts and collectors. Yet the volumes produced by the distillery remain almost minute, especially when considered in the context of the international market. It seems the Carbet distillery is determined to stay true to its roots and expertise, with nothing capable of distracting it from its commitment to simplicity and authenticity.
A family story
The distillery’s story began in 1931 when Adrien Neisson, a trader in Saint-Pierre, decided to buy 20 hectares of the Thieubert estate in Le Carbet. There he planted his first sugarcanes, used to produce a rhum agricole by distilling pure cane juice. Construction of the distillery began in 1932, and a boiler dating back to 1886 was installed, along with cane mills imported from France. After this, Adrien’s younger brother, Jean Neisson, left for the French mainland to study chemical engineering at the Ecole Supérieure de Chimie in Paris, graduating in July 1939. Initially forced to stay on the mainland because of the war, Jean eventually returned to Martinique in 1944. Over the seasons, Neisson rum developed a reputation for its high quality, notably thanks to its avant-garde production techniques, which included refusing to burn the canes and limited use of chemicals. Jean also switched to slow fermentation using yeast taken from his own sugar canes in order to keep the connection to the terroir. In 1952, a copper Savalle still was installed that remains in use today. Jean even tinkered with the still, making his own adjustments, notably to the plates. This was also when he designed the famous Z’épol Karé bottle (with square shoulders) whose shape still stands as the brand’s icon. After Jean’s death in 1986, the family asked Emmanuel Fedronic, a distiller who had already worked at Neisson in the 1960s, to take over production. Fedronic remained at the distillery until 2006, aged 86. Meanwhile Jean’s daughter Claudine Vernant-Neisson took up the torch in 1995, followed soon after by her son Grégory. This makes Neisson one of the last two family-run, independent distilleries on Martinique.
Respect for terroir and organic farming
At Neisson, organic farming was seen as the best way to honour the terroir. Converting the land to organic methods has meant cutting out chemical weedkillers, replaced by implements for mechanical weeding and increased manual weeding work. Service plants have also been seeded to cover the spaces in between rows of canes, taking the place of weeds in a technique previously also used by Jean Neisson, at a time when few were interested in these types of methods. The roots of service plants help limit soil erosion, promoting water absorption and enriching the soil with nitrogen... Cane fields have also been surrounded with vetiver, a bushy green plant whose roots grow as deep as three meters. Used by farmers in many countries from India to Nigeria, the plant helps prevent soil erosion and weed growth, among other things, including, for example, maintaining soil humidity. Organic waste from rum production, such as bagasse (waste from crushed canes), vinasse (watery residue from distillation) and bagasse ash, are also used to make compost. Sugar cane, for example, requires large quantities of potassium to thrive, a mineral found in high concentration in vinasse.
Taking its time
Neisson grows 42 hectares of sugarcane between Le Carbet and Saint Pierre. This compares with the 4,150 hectares grown in Martinique in total, 60% of which is used for rhum agricole. This makes Neisson responsible for roughly 2% of Martinique rhum and only a small player in the rum industry overall. In terms of volume, it produces a little under 400,000 bottles per year, two-thirds of which are white rums bottled at 50% and 55% ABV. Special releases and/or vintages make up less than 1% of Neisson’s annual production. All of which highlights the incredible rarity of these bottlings, which have a special place in the distillery’s range. Rather than expanding or increasing production, Neisson has chosen to stick to the same path, improving the cane to make it sweeter, continuing its conversion to organic farming, and working on its barrels in order to favour barrel ageing wherever possible. As Grégory Vernant Neisson put it so well in a 2020 interview with Whisky Magazine, “Progress means building even stronger links with the terroir.”
Tasting:
Neisson 1995-2014 Single cask Velier et LMDW 48%:
Colour: amber.
Nose: The first nose opens with notes of candied apricot, milk chocolate and a delicate hint of coffee. Huge freshness characterized by mint then develops into medicinal notes (tiger balm and eucalyptus). Finally, exotic fruit returns with guava and dried mango.
Palate: The lively and tangy attack expresses flavours of lime. Grilled nuts then take over, with walnut, hazelnut and cashew. The rustic profile is confirmed by farmyard notes of hay and straw. Spices and light wood close proceedings with ginger, turmeric and saffron.
Finish: Long and fresh, ending on citrus fruit (lemon, grapefruit) and sugar cane, followed by lovely notes of damp earth and blonde tobacco.
A typical aged rum for Neisson and a reflection of its incredible skills in ageing. After 19 years in barrel in the warmth and humidity of Martinique, it still remains incredibly fresh.
