Are Breton Whiskies Already Collector's Items?
France has been producing whisky for over forty years now, but if we take a closer look, it is obvious that there has only been a popularity peak in the last decade. This is particularly telling when we look at the trend in the number of whisky distilleries opening in France: in 2000, there were seven, in 2010 around 20, in 2015 almost 40, and today there are over 180 producers bringing this category to life! Therefore, despite the history of French whisky being rather dynamic, it is also still relatively recent.
Nevertheless, some bottlings from previous decades are starting to increase in value, and the category is gradually seeing its first genuine collectors' items emerge on the secondary market. This is highlighted perfectly by Brittany, which has been paving the way for French whisky since 1983, and is in the spotlight at the most recent sale organised by Fine Spirits Auction. This is the perfect opportunity for interested parties to revisit some of the most iconic bottlings that have ensured their place in Britanny’s whisky history, and that can be found in this selection!
Pioneers and Independent Bottling Companies
In the world of whisky, the recognition of a distillery often involves the work of independent bottlers. To be selected by these intermediaries – true ferrymen between the distilleries and discerning enthusiasts – serves as an unmistakable sign of excellence.
These bottlers carefully choose the casks that they consider to be the most remarkable, offering a unique insight into the expertise and identity of distilleries.
It is hardly surprising that the Warenghem distillery, the pioneer of French whisky with its well-established reputation, is the subject of several independent bottlings. This is most specifically the case for the three batches signed by That Boutique-y Whisky Company which, each in their own style, give a glimpse into the artistry of the Lannion distillery.
Batch 1 is an Armorik 7 Year Old single malt that was aged in a new Breton oak cask. This bottling is characterised by sweet notes of vanilla, nuts and wholemeal bread, accentuated by light spices and a hint of Mirabelle plums. Batch 2 was aged for five years in Sauternes barrels and unveils a fruity and balanced profile that blends together red apples, plums and orange zest. On the palate: berries, rhubarb and spice, followed by a long finish of forest fruits. Lastly, Batch 3 is an Armorik 8 Year Old that was matured in Chouchen barrels. It offers a more complex profile with aromas of caramelized fruits and spices, and a palate blending honey, burnt oak and ginger in a long and warmly spiced finish.
The distillery was also featured in the Version Française range, launched in 2020 by Maison du Whisky. Wholeheartedly dedicated to French whiskies, this bottling company has bottled more than forty single casks of some of the most memorable in the history of French whisky. This includes two Armorik casks: cask no.480, a 2011 vintage aged in Chouchen barrels. With its exceptionally generous profile – structured by an impeccable distillate and offering an aromatic journey from orchard fruits to candied lemon, with unmistakable notes of honey; while cask no. 3609, a second-fill Oloroso sherry cask that previously matured a distillate that had been intensely smoked with Scottish peat at 45 ppm – evoking burning peat, candied fruits and roasting – serves as a testament to the time when the distillery bottled peaty whiskies under the Armorik brand rather than Yeun Elez.
Of course, the distillery has bottled its own legendary single casks, some of which are also available on the platform.
From the Celtic Whisky Compagnie to the Glann ar Mor distillery
Speaking of independent bottling companies, let’s turn our attention to another iconic figure in Breton whisky: the Glann ar Mor distillery, which means seashore in Breton. Even before trying their hand at distilling, Jean and Martine Donnay developed a trading business called the Celtic Whisky Compagnie, experimenting with aging in Sauternes barrels and other French wines or spirit barrels.
Remember that it wasn’t until the late 1990s that Glenmorangie and Dr Bill Lumsden began experimenting with their first finishes. Meanwhile, the Celtic Whisky Compagnie – founded in 1997 by Jean and Martine Donnay – played a key role in fostering this practice. We can find their earliest valiant attempts at aging in ex-Sauternes barrels, alongside finishes in Monbazillac, Coteaux du Layon, Champagne and even Armagnac barrels under Celtic Connexion. Although this practice is now widely used, these bottles were considered a real innovation – you might even say unheard of – at the time!
This expertise of aging naturally led to creation of the Glann ar Mor distillery in 2004, after some initial attempts in 1999. This relatively small distillery revives a production method reminiscent of the distilleries of Islay in the early 20th century with long fermentation periods, condenser coils, direct fire heating… and despite being rather niche and artisanal, the wash still holds 11 hectolitres and the spirit still 6.5 hectolitres. This distillery will undoubtedly contribute greatly to the credibility of French whisky, both in France and internationally.
While the expertise developed at the Celtic Whisky Compagnie focused on maturation and the use of highly active casks, paradoxically it was through the distillation process that the Donnays discovered their passion for bourbon-cask ageing.
In this respect, the Fine Spirits Auction sale is filled with unarguably iconic bottlings!
We cannot ignore, for example, the first Kornog Saint Ivy released in 2011, truly a piece of history. This single cask, bottled on Saint Yves' Day, patron saint of Brittany, wholeheartedly reflects the artistry of Martine and Jean Donnay. The nose opens the show with malty and fruity aromas and the texture is full and complex on the palate, dominated by the sweetness of fruit, particularly apricot, and enhanced by subtle hints of mild spices. The fresh and balanced finish unveils floral hints and a subtle touch of salt.
Among the rare pieces, the Glann ar Mor 2007– the first single cask of the Version Française (VF001) collection – emerges from a first‑fill bourbon barrel and balances pastry‑like richness with the bracing minerality of the Breton coast. The finish appears exotic with aromas of banana, vanilla and coconut.
Last but by no means least, the single cask Whisky Sponge – celebrating 18 years, 4 months and 17 days of the famous Whiskyfun blog – is also worth a look! Released in 2020, this 15 Year Old has a vibrant and elegant profile, dry and saline, where refined peat intertwines with green walnut, tobacco, leather and chamomile notes – delivering subtle complexity and a distinctly maritime character.
In 2020, the Glann ar Mor distillery was bought over by Maison Villevert. This made the bottles from the earlier period – of which more than 80 expressions are included in the sale – highly sought-after and extremely collectible.
And finally, the sale also showcases the Naguelann distillery. Founded in 2014 by Lénaïck Lemaître, an ex-barman, who initially focused on trading and blending before investing in his first 500-litre Charentais still in 2016. It didn’t take long for him to purchase a second 1,000L still in 2017. In 2020, he introduced his first-ever 100% homemade whisky called Dieil – a name which means “rare” in Breton. This inaugural expression, featured alongside ten others at the Fine Spirits Auction sale, showcases a minimalistic character of cereals and ashy peat.
