Bottlings from the Dun Eideann range are often overlooked at auction, in whisky bars and at tasting clubs. Yet, with their tribute to Edinburgh on the label that of another famous range from Signatory Vintage’s founder Andrew Symington, they are well worth the attention of enthusiasts and collectors. We take a closer look at a lesser known but no less exceptional range.
It all began in the 1980s
It was in the 1980s that Andrew Symington discovered the world of single malts as assistant director of Edinburgh’s prestigious Prestonfield House. At the time, the luxury hotel was a popular location for whisky producers to hold evening events with their most important clients. Thanks to the immense range of single malts on offer at Prestonfield House and the samples provided by the bar’s clients, Andrew Symington soon developed a passion for the product. After producing a handful of bottlings for the Prestonfield range (including two outstanding Springbank 1967 and an immense Bowmore 1965), Andrew Symington really launched his activities as an independent bottler in 1988 and founded Signatory Vintage.
Symington continued to develop the Prestonfield range until 2011 (and a magnificent Glen Scotia 1977 selected together by La Maison du Whisky & The Nectar of the Daily Drams as the Final Release). Through Signatory Vintage, he created some of the most iconic collections in whisky history. These include the legendary dumpy bottles, the Vintage Collection bottled at 43%, Millennium to celebrate the year 2000, and the Silent Stills range dedicated to closed distilleries. Today, Signatory Vintage’s range is focused on four series, the Un-Chillfiltered Collection (bottled at 46% without chill-filtration), Very Cloudy (bottled at 40% and un-chillfiltered), the Cask Strength Collection, and, finally, another collection of chill-filtered single malts bottled at 43%.
A hidden gem
In 1988, Signatory Vintage launched the smaller Dun Eideann collection—named after the Gaelic for “Edinburgh”—more than 250 editions of which would be released by the early 2000s.
These single malts from both active and now closed distilleries were released at the cask strength of 43% without chill-filtration, as Symington wanted to preserve the whiskies’ full range of flavours and aromas. Unlike other series from Signatory Vintage, the bottler’s name is never mentioned on the bottles’ labels.
This is because, when he launched Dun Eideann, Symington’s plan was to work with several distributors in a single country. In France, for example, La Maison du Whisky handled distribution of Signatory Vintage, while the Dun Eideann range was managed by Auxil. The same principle was used in Italy, where Signatory Vintage was distributed by Velier and the Dun Eideann series by Donato. This distinction between Dun Eideann and Signatory Vintage has nothing to do with quality, however.
Dun Eideann, which literally means “fortress of Eidyn”, was once the castle for the kings of Scotland and therefore where the Crown Jewels were kept, away from prying eyes. The back label, unusually written in French, states, “C’est pourquoi le nom Dun Eideann a été choisi pour être celui d’une véritable sélection de malts rares, véritables joyaux.” (This is why the name Dun Eideann was chosen for this authentic collection of rare malts, true precious jewels.) The name was an immediate statement of intentions!
It is not unusual to see editions from legendary distilleries like Port Ellen and Rosebank fetch sums of around £500 at auction. At Fine Spirits Auction, a Rosebank 1991 went for €300 including commissions at the March 2023 auction. In series labelled Signatory Vintage, bottlings from these distilleries fetch higher prices than their Dun Eideann counterparts, despite their equal quality.
The excellent value of bottlings in the Dun Eideann range is also seen in famous vintages. A Bowmore 1996, for example, fetched £3,709 last year. Such prices would never be seen for another importer or independent bottler. The same phenomenon has been observed with Springbanks from the 1960s. A 20 year old from 1967 went for £1,850, less than some official editions (such as the Local Barley versions) and the famous Prestonfield House releases.
In addition to these legendary vintages and distilleries, the Dun Eideann also offers buyers a chance to discover lesser known distilleries at affordable prices. At Fine Spirits Auction, two Benrinnes 1989 went for under €100, a Royal Brackla 1983 for €106 and a Craigellachie 1981 for €112. Just one more reason whisky fans would do well to take an interest in the single malts found in a series considered by Andrew Symington to be filled with true jewels.
Tasting:
To finish, we take a look at two stunning whiskies from Islay:
Port Ellen 1978 Dun Eideann 43% :
Colour: light gold.
Nose: fresh, magnetic. Aromas of shellfish, seawater and seaweed beautifully anchor this tasting at sea. Ethereal notes of smoke, star anise and shortbread create a subtle second sequence.
Palate: lively, sweet. Continuing on from the nose, shortbread crumbs spread across the palate. The mid-palate reveals sweet spices, before a wave of coarse salt brings the tasting back to this Port Ellen’s marine setting. An elegant hint of vanilla makes for a lovely end to the palate.
Finish: refined, complex. The richness continues but in another register that is both empyreumatic (burnt tart pastry) and fruit (stewed apple). Ground coffee follows this sequence of flavours. Aromatic herbs arrive in the after-taste.
Despite its bottling strength, this Port Ellen reveals great generosity and a rich expression. A fairly modern style for a beautifully complex whisky.
Ardbeg 1974 Dun Eideann 43 %:
Colour: amber.
Nose: warm, unusual. This unusual Ardbeg takes on the airs of a Barbados rum with notes of coconut, burnt caramel, elastoplast, antiseptic and polished wood. Allowed to breathe, a note of sparkling passion fruit juice refreshes the aroma palette, adding an ethereal dimension.
Palate: harmonious, subtle. The attack’s organic (hydrocarbon) and exotic (very ripe mango) character takes us not only to Kildalton but also as far as Trinidad and Tobago. Smoke makes a fleeting appearance on the mid-palate, preceding very precise notes of lemon.
Finish: taut, ample. The start of the finish is like chewing on caramel bonbons. A minerality then gradually takes hold and we definitively leave Barbados and Trinidad and Tobago. Finally, Ardbeg’s iconic smoke appears in the after-taste, closing the tasting with great style.
In one of his many tasting notes published on whiskyfun.com, Serge Valentin writes that great spirits always end up converging with one another. This Ardbeg is the perfect example.
