The view from the Golden Promise offers the opportunity to discuss the bottles on display at Finespirits Auction from a new perspective, thanks to the experts at the Golden Promise Whisky Bar, Stanislas Kindroz and Salvatore Mannino.
SALVATORE MANNINO
BOWMORE 1990 PRESTONFIELD, 20 YEARS, CASK No.1065, 50.7%, 294 bottles, Signatory Vintage for LMDW.
The 1990s were a turning point for Bowmore and showcased a transformation in their aromatic profile. The distillations from the 1980s undeniably made heads turn with notes of violet, after which an evolution began to take shape with a more robust fruitiness – a characteristic that has always been part of the reputation of the oldest distillery on Islay. This version is a true testament to that.
The rich, generous nose has a hint of peat and delicate aromas of exotic fruit (litchi). Sumptuous notes of crème chiboust (a light, airy pastry cream) emerge, mixing with aromas of camphor (tiger balm) and spices such as white peppercorn. Hints of liquorice arise with more aeration. The tasting journey takes us all the way to the beach, with notes of wakame seaweed and sea lettuce. The full-bodied palate accentuates the aromas on the nose, subtly interlacing delicate peat aromas with fruit. Of course, this version does not possess the same exotic aromas as the Bowmores from the 1960s, but their unique singularity is still present. The peated notes flourish through their delicate nuances. Indeed, Bowmore is known for displaying levels of phenol that are distinctly lower than other distilleries from Islay, and this is precisely why we are drawn to it. The well-rounded aromas of spice which are firmly part of its individuality, unveil rich notes of vanilla cream, and shouldn’t be overlooked. Lastly, the finish transports us to the banks of the Loch Indaal, with a touch of salty sea breeze and a distinct earthiness. The long, saline finish boasts delicate hints of flowers.
A remarkably generous Bowmore with the perfect amount of simplicity, no more, no less.
LAPHROAIG 16 YEARS, 1995, SIGNATORY VINTAGE, 100 PROOF, 100 YEARS OF CHEERS, HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR
This cask of Laphroaig was selected by the team at the legendary Harry’s New York Bar in Paris – which opened its doors in 1911 – to celebrate their 100-year anniversary. It was bottled at 57.1%, meaning the label is marked as100 proof, to commemorate this centenary celebration.
The nose boasts luxurious notes of peat mixed with exotic fruits and caramel-flavoured liquorice. Hints of lime emerge as well as subtle medicinal aromas which are distinctive to Laphroaig, along with notes of liquorice sticks which are another unique characteristic of this single malt. Flavours of rich ice cream and notes of malted and peated barley mix beautifully with orange blossom to resemble Turkish delight. The palate is full-bodied and robust. The hearty aromas of peat and toasted malt instantly transport us to the distillery’s malting floor and next to the kiln: a true ode to malted barley. Citrus aromas delicately arise (candied lemons and white grapefruit) as well as summer savoury. The persistent finish is rich with peated barley. What a celebration!
LAPHROAIG 21 YEARS, 1990, THE WHISKY AGENCY/LMDW, EX-BOURBON HOGSHEAD, 51.4%, 157 bottles.
This Laphroaig was bottled by the German independent bottler The Whisky Agency, which was founded by Meike Schneider and Carsten Ehrlich. The latter was the manager of the famous shop Mara, located in Limburg, the city which each year transforms into the world capital for rare and collectable whiskies during their famous Whisky Fair.
The crisp nose is surprisingly delicate with subtle notes of peat, while sweet aromas of barley and pear take the lead. After a little more aeration, exotic notes of candied pineapple and spices such as white peppercorn emerge, along with more pronounced aromas of phenol, and a slightly salty and burnt quality. Moving forward, earthy hints of barn floor arise, followed by rich notes of marshmallow, almond milk, and Lebanese milk pudding. The intricate and fresh aromas are enhanced by a lush, grassy quality, followed by hints of salty sea breeze directly off the coast from the distillery. The palate is luxurious and smooth with a hint of spice (green peppercorn) that balances the sophisticated nose. The robust peated quality is shouldered by the medicinal nature that is characteristic of Laphroaig. The creamy aromas on the nose also appear on the palate, for a full-bodied and generous finish. The persistent finish also boasts a slightly earthy bitterness that is thoroughly delightful.
This is an unparalleled version of Laphroaig which showcases just how much this whisky can genuinely surprise us. Some of the more exotic aromas remind us of the exquisite versions from the 1970s and 80s.
Behind the Mosstowie name is a whisky that was produced by the Miltonduff distillery during the 1960s and 70s. During this time, new “Lomond” stills were being used to produce a distillate that responded to the blending houses’ needs. Around the same time, this innovative still also affected the Glenburgie distillery, who was owned by the same group, Hiram Walker (the name was later changed to Glencraig). This all goes to say that bottled versions of this single malt whisky are few and far between, and Signatory Vintage had the notable idea of acquiring a few casks, to everyone’s delight. This version is a beautiful example of that.
The undeniably crisp nose takes us to the heart of an orchard with quince, freshly peeled pear, and nectarine with delicate notes of spice (nutmeg, grated cacao bean). It boasts luxurious notes of Madagascar vanilla mixed with aromas of dried thyme, and floats gently toward earthy notes of sap and bark. Exotic aromas of dragon fruit transform into more robust spice (white peppercorn, juniper berry), which finishes on creamy notes of shelled almonds and coffee with cream. The palate is smooth with hints of spice (black and green peppercorn), as well as velvety. As it develops, luscious vanilla aromas enhance the palate, paving the way for the cascade of fruit flavours such as quince and Guyot pears, as well as the earthy sap which rounds out this whisky beautifully. The finish is persistent, delicate, and dry.
Get your bookmarks ready, because you will want to come back to this page in the history books time and time again!
