The view from the Golden Promise offers the opportunity to talk about the bottles on display at finespirits.auction from a new perspective thanks to the experts at the Golden Promise Whisky Bar, Stanislas Kindroz and Salvatore Mannino.
SALVATORE MANNINO
ABERLOUR 30 years 1975, cask N°4577, 48.9% ABV, 164 bottles
Founded in Speyside in 1879 - which, ironically, isn’t actually in the highlands, even though the label proudly states, “Highland single malt” - and owned by Pernod Ricard since 1974 (the first Scottish distillery acquired by the group), it comes as no surprise that Aberlour has a special place in the hearts of the French people: in fact, France remains, by far, its primary market. Aberlour is the eighth most sold single malt in the world, a justifiable place, even if it is shunned by many amateur enthusiasts, claiming that this whisky is too easily labelled as a “classic”. We cannot talk about this distillery without mentioning the wonderful bottlings on offer - starting with the famous A'bunadh, launched in 2000 - and of which we have here, with this 30-year-old item, a perfect example:
On the nose, a wonderful finesse, tantalising us with notes of green apples, evoking a stroll through orchards before leading us on a more exotic walk with pleasant hints of Turkish delight, followed by lightly toasted almonds and Acacias honey, all of this in cloaked in a veil of incense smoke with hints of vanilla! Then back to the orchard, with freshly peeled quince and grass soaked in morning dew. Finally, lemon zest continues to bring a great freshness to this whisky, despite its venerable age.
The palate is fluid, indulgent and spiced: of white chocolate with specks of lemon peel, sprinkled with green pepper and grated ginger as well as a lovely interlacing of vanilla and tarragon. A light herbaceous bitterness appears to give even more character. The finish is long, warm, spiced, acidic and herbaceous (gentian plant). I’ll happily take many more of these kinds of “classics”.
GLEN ORD 23 years 1974 Rare Malts (bottled in 1998), 60.80% ABV
GLEN ORD is not thought of as highly as others by whiskey lovers and yet, this distillery stands out from its peers in a notable way by being one of the very rare Scottish establishments to be self-sufficient when it comes to its malt requirements with their own maltings built in situ in 1968 (18 drum maltings - enormous drums, modern malting processes). Not only do they supply the distillery, but also meet the needs - among others - of Talisker. Its huge production capacity - more than 11 million litres of pure alcohol - is justified by the extensive use of their whiskey in blends and as a single malt. Today, known under the name, “Singleton of Glen Ord”, and being very popular in the Asian market, this whiskey has often changed name throughout its history, enough to make fans dizzy: Glenoran, Glen Ord, Ordie, Ord and Muir of Ord: the many titles that have adorned its labels!
The edition which interests us today was bottled simply under the name Glen Ord, in the famous range of Rare Malts created during the middle of the 1990s, and with an impressive 60.80% ABV after 23 years of ageing!
On the nose, it is lively, fresh, malted and herby: just like we're right in the middle of a barley field. With more airing, fruity (medlar tree), spiced pepper and subtle medicinal notes of camphor come through. Over time, it rounds and becomes indulgent, evoking thoughts of brioche from Vendée, a promise of a fine tasting. The palate is powerful, we find malt and this medicinal hint, with discreet tones of peat peaking through. Becoming softer mid-palate, the fruits take over the reins with flavours of white grapefruit, quince, and white nectarine. The finish is beautifully long, dry and medicinal. An ode to its raw material, this is a malt that really deserves to be brought out of the woodwork.
