The View from the Golden Promise is a chance to see the bottles under the hammer at finespirits.auction in a new light. To give you this fresh perspective, we’ve called on two experts from the Golden Promise Whisky Bar.
SALVATORE MANNINO
Nikka Tsuru 17 ans, 2012, 43 %, 70cl
Blends are often underestimated but this Tsuru 17 Year Old is a great example of how, in The Land of the Rising Sun blending can be a genuine art form (which it is). Every characteristic for which Japanese whisky is known is present: balance, complexity and finesse. Candied fruit hides sweet spices, all finished off with notes of noble wood. It’s easy to see why these charming Japanese whiskies are so popular.
Hakushu 18 ans, 43%, 70cl
Founded by Suntory in 1973, 50 years after the Yamazaki distillery, Hakushu, which is located in the Southern Japanese Alps, was expanded in 1977 to became the largest malt distillery in the world. In 1981, a new, more modern distillery opened on the same site and the old distillery ceased production. Hakushu’s single malts have always been in the shadow of its older sister located near Osaka, and yet they are every bit as good, albeit in a different style. The 18 Year Old was launched in 2006 but is today becoming increasingly rare. Peat is often mentioned when talking about the distillery, but in fact its presence is extremely subtle, as we can see in this particular edition. In fact, if we had to sum up this 18 year old in just word, “subtle” would be it. The nose is refined and delicate, revealing candied lemon, musk and black pepper, with herbaceous notes (sap, gentian) complementing the freshness of grass and mint. Vanilla and tarragon cream sprinkled with nutmeg adds richness. The palate is fluid and oily, revealing a very measured expression of peat (a hint of soot and burnt wood). Next, tangy notes of citrus fruit enveloped in spices, as well as a gentle rancio and dried herbs add the finishing touches to the flavour palette. The finish is long and fresh, keeping intact the same herbaceous notes. A well-mannered but wonderfully complex whisky.
STANISLAS KINDROZ
A.H. Hirsch 16 years 1974 Of. Reserve 45.8%:
A truly legendary bourbon. This 1990 edition was produced at the now closed Bomberger’s distillery in Pennsylvania. The mash bill for this version is composed of 75% maize, 13% rye and 12% malted barley. The tasting begins with an empyreumatic first sequence (burnt wood, roast chestnut). This is followed by a lovely layer of vanilla. Violet then pierces through, before this intense sequence is quelled by a beautiful note of salted butter caramel. After a citrus attack (orange, clementine), black coffee, florals and blueberry take turns adding to the flavour palette. The palate reminds me of some of the Saint James rums I have tasted in the past. The start of the finish brings notes of floating island dessert and salted popcorn. Blueberry then returns and the tasting ends on a very rich note. This A.H.Hirsch is a delight to taste. A must-have for bourbon enthusiasts and an invitation to all fans of rhum agricole.
Arran 1997 Of. Premium Cask No. 1997-1323 - one of 239 - bottled 2022 LMDW Collection Antipodes:
This Arran single cask was matured in a refill sherry hogshead and selected by La Maison du Whisky in 2022 for its Antipodes Creation Catalogue to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the founding of the whisky.fr website. The nose pays tribute to Arran’s island character. Salty fragrances plunge us deep into a coastal landscape with a rush of exoticism (pineapple). Rocky scents outline a coastal landscape that becomes mountainous, without ever leaving fruit (green apple) out of the tasting. A hint of caramel and blueberry juice come elegantly one after the other in the attack. For a few seconds, the mid-palate is flooded with rich notes of bread pudding. A more discreet salinity then emerges to establish balance, although without ever taking the lead. The finish is soft and soporific, taking us first to nutty notes (walnut, hazelnut) and stone fruits (lychee). A very refined Arran.
