A key player in the Jamaican “grand cru” terroir, the Hampden distillery continues to employ traditional practices to produce its rumq in this Caribbean island state. Though founded in the 18th century, it was not until 2011 that the first official bottlings were released under the Hampden brand. In 2018, it launched its first aged rums, matured entirely at the distillery and distributed through La Maison & Velier, a joint venture between LMDW in France and the Italian bottler Velier. We journey to the heart of a distillery whose centuries-old production methods have never seemed more modern.
An old distillery, but a young brand
The Hampden Estate Distillery was founded in Trelawny, in the north-west of Jamaica, in 1753. Up until the early 21st century, the rum it produced was sold in bulk for blends to traders, blenders and independent bottlers. It was only when the Hussey family bought the distillery in 2009 that it began ageing its rums on site. The Hampden brand itself was created in 2011 with the release of the white rum Rum Fire and further established in 2012 with the release of two additional bottlings, Hampden Gold and Rum Fire Velvet.
In 2018, Hampden released its first aged rums. Enthusiasts were introduced to skills and expertise developed and preserved by the distillery for 265 years. They were able to taste extroverted rums resulting from fermentations boosted by “dunder” and “muck”, two key ingredients explored below that inspire huge fascination from rum lovers. Hampden’s aged rums arrived on the market at the same time as Jamaican High Ester Rums—rums distilled in pot stills (normally double retort) with ester levels ranging from 500 g per HLPA (hectolitres of pure alcohol) to 1,600 g per HLPA (a threshold set out in a law from February 1935). It was a category in which Hampden excelled, developing its name across the globe.
Dunder and muck: Where the magic happens
Jamaican rum’s unique character comes in part from the use of dunder—or vinasse—the residue left over after distilling must and added to the following fermentations.
At Hampden, high ester rums are made from a distillate of molasses, dunder and muck, with the latter two ingredients boosting ester production during fermentation.
After distillation, the dunder is poured into muck pits dug into the ground, into which water and very ripe fruits such as bananas, jackfruits and sapotille are added. The muck pit is topped up once a year with “mud” from the muck grave, a stock of “compost” located outside the distillery composed of fermentation residue, dunder, earth and bagasse.
The interaction between these elements greatly increases the rum’s ester concentration during fermentation, which lasts at least two weeks and can take as long as a month or more depending on the profile of rum sought. No exogenous yeasts are added to this bacteria and acid-rich natural mixture. Before distillation, the wash spends another week in vats, where it develops other esters. Finally, an additional portion of muck is sometimes added depending on the desired profile.
Low and high ester distillation
Hampden uses a traditional distillation process in double-retort pot stills. The spirit is distilled only once for approximately seven hours. It comes off the stills at a strength of between 85.5% and 86.5%.
It would be impossible to talk about Jamaican rum, and Hampden in particular, without mentioning the concept of “marks”. This term is used for a variety of rum categories defined based on the concentration of esters per HLPA. Originally, categorizing rums into marks enabled blenders and the other clients of Jamaica’s distilleries to distinguish between the different organoleptic profiles of a rum and to class them based on their aromatic intensity. Today, the different marks produced by a distillery provide important information for rum enthusiasts in search of specific profiles. In Jamaica, marks are usually designated by acronyms unique to each distillery.
At Hampden, the distillery has historically produced six marks, with the Hussey family adding two new marks after its arrival. Boasting a lower ester content, these were named OWH (40-80 g/HLPA) and LFCH (80-120 g/HLPA). They are produced from water and molasses. The six historic marks, LROK (200-400 g/HLPA), HLCF (400-600 g/HLPA), <> H (900-1000 g/HLPA), HGML (1000-1000 g/HLPA), C <> H (1300-1400 g/HLPA) and DOK (1500-1600 g/HLPA), are produced from molasses, cane juice vinegar, dunder, water and muck in varying proportions. Fermentation times also differ. The longer the fermentation, the higher the ester content and the more intense the mark.
Rum with global acclaim
Hampden’s most sought-after bottlings include the famous Trelawny Endemic Birds Series. Whether for a lot of several expression or sometimes even just a single edition, these versions easily fetch over a thousand euros at auction. The distillery’s old vintages are also a big hit with enthusiasts. Hampdens distilled in the early 1990s and bottled by independent bottlers can fetch hammer prices of more than £2,000 (and as much as £2,500). Other more recent independent bottlings, such as the expressions in the Habitation Velier range, are also popular on the secondary market. Hampden Great House bottlings are another worth keeping an eye out for, with the 2019, 2020 and 2021 editions coming close to a thousand euros at auction. One thing is sure, Hampden is currently très a la mode, and what we are seeing now is just the start of its modern-day history.
Tasting notes:
Hampden Great House 2019 59%:
Built in 1779, up until the start of the 20th century Hampden Great House was used to store casks. Every year since 2019, the distillery has revealed an edition in its name.
The first bottling is a blend of the distillery’s least typical mark (80% OWH distilled in 2012) and most typical mark (20% DOK). The first sequence of aromas is dominated by notes of ripe fruit (pineapple, mango). The nose then becomes more earthy before moving into rich (crème brûlée) and mineral (wood coal) notes. The palate lacks neither energy nor power. The stately attack brings an immense wave of fruit composed of banana, mango, orange and pineapple. The mid-palate is more spicy, revealing typical notes of grey pepper and cardamom. The start of the finish returns to very ripe mango left forgotten in a basket. Soft notes of cinnamon and caramelized stewed apple emerge on the retro-nasal olfaction. A truly robust and complex Hampden!
Hampden 9 Years 2011 Red Billed Streamertail Single Cask #296 60.3%:
Released as part of the famous Trelawny Endemic Birds Series, this single cask #296 is a tribute to the diverse fauna found in Trelawny and Cockpit Country, and more specifically the native bird species. This 9 year old LFCH mark reveals a very refined nose, with aromas of glue, hemp, turf and banana skin. Anything but aggressive, it then gradually develops notes of almond, hazelnut and newspaper. The palate continues in the same vein. The attack is deeply rich and characterized by notes of lemon and vanilla cream. Hampden’s trademark fruit appears on the mid-palate, which is boosted by notes of orange, passion fruit and mango. At the end of the palate, vanilla returns, bringing milk chocolate with it. This flavourful vignette, just like the rest of the tasting, is full of finesse. The mango-rich finish continues along the same path. Proof that Hampden’s great gems are not limited to just its high ester releases.
Hampden 6 Years 2010 HLCF Habitation Velier 68.5%:
Bottled two years before the release of the first official aged Hampdens, this HCLF mark is part of the Habitation Velier range created by Luca Gargano in 2015. Coming in at a whopping 68.5% ABV, this rum has a surprisingly subtle nose. On it, we find the very ripe mangos Hampden is famous for, but also aromas of bay leaf, violet, tobacco and polished wood. The remarkably round palate is wonderfully supple and meanders through vanilla, apricot, mango, green apple, pineapple, lemon balm and liquorice. Little hints of violet return just before a more earthy finish is pepped up with a handful of pineapple notes. A stunning example of Hampden’s leading HLCF mark.
